Interview with Bharati Mukherjee, India Currents, October 2011

(Originally appeared in the October 2011 print edition of India Currents)

A Country Undergoing Seismic Social Change

What was the inspiration for Miss New India? In previous interviews, you had mentioned visiting Bangalore and meeting call center customer specialists … can you elaborate on that? Did the character take shape over time or was it any one person who provided the creative spark?
I visited Bangalore many times. A first cousin of mine also lives there; she used to work for the UN, and later bought some land and built a house in Dollar Colony [ed: a place that is mentioned in the book], a place where people could reserve land only with international currency. Only expats who could afford it would buy there.
I have always been interested in immigration, but what I was witnessing in India now was a seismic social change, in gender relations and in social relations. There is now internal migration in India—people from small towns, like Anjali, who would never go to an IIT, or Yale, but still have the opportunity to strike it big in the metropolises of India.
People like Anjali attend missionary schools, learn English, and want to go places that their parents wouldn’t have even dreamed of. I was witnessing, on these trips, a whole new middle-class emerging—young women from modest backgrounds, whose only escape would have been marriage, moving to a big city, interested in adventures for themselves, with no chaperones, no community to show their disapproval; I got to know a lot of them during my visits. Some stayed at Anglo-Indian boarding houses; some were pooling their resources together and renting apartments. I made several trips to get to know these women. I also got to know the trainers who work at call center training centers. Some trainers whom I’d met on my first trip to Bangalore had already moved on and started their own training business the next time I met them!
What I hope I have gotten across through the book is that there are both winners and losers in the new India. There are the young Anjalis who have significant disposable incomes and seem to be caught up by the wave of consumerism. There is this sense that I have made it, I can go to the mall, and buy a Versace or a Gucci with my salary, my money. Their parents would not have been able to do it.
But there is also corruption and land grabbing. I recently read in the New York Times about the farmlands are being compromised and being sold off for commercial real estate. Also, even though I hadn’t interviewed anybody that was raped I have read about the gang raping of women employed in call centers in places like Gurgaon.
There is both corruption and empowerment. I have tried to capture both in the book.
Was there any one individual in particular whom you’d met that provided the backdrop for Anjali’s character?
There was a young woman who came with her parents for high tea to my cousin’s place. The parents thought I might know of Silicon Valley bridegrooms for their daughter. The conversation was flowing well, until all of a sudden, the father and the daughter started quarrelling. The girl must have been in her late 20s. She told me that she would come back and visit me the next day. She did come back and poured out her story, about her dreams and ambitions, about how she bought a condo for her parents and yet the power dynamics between parents and children had not changed. Parents continue to control their adult children’s social activities. She told me how women of her age were no longer interested in marriage as the only goal in life, but rather as one of many goals. Her story is not Anjali’s story, but hers and the many others that I later encountered on my trips to India provided the initial sparks for Miss New India.
I also interviewed venture capitalists who had started companies in India.
As an essayist or a sociologist, you write about general trends. But as a novelist, you write about a single character that seems ordinary but has extraordinary interests. This is what I tried to do with Anjali.
Minnie is a very interesting character. Miss Minnie Bagehot reminded me of Mrs. Harter, our neighbor in Ooty who lived in an old bungalow. How did this character take shape for you?
Oh, I have known several of them all my life! In Kolkota, where I grew up, there were many such Anglo-Indian ladies. In Bangalore though, they seem to be a dying breed. Again, I wouldn’t say that everything in the book is a perfect reflection of reality. After all, it takes memories and imagination to transform perceived reality into fiction.
Did you actually sit-in on a training session for “accent enhancement” at the training centers?
I didn’t sit through a training session. But I did spend much time with the trainers and got many hours of interviews with them. I also pored through their training manuals.
In your research did you find that the new corporate culture or even the sub-culture of Bangalore erased or disguised class, caste, and communal lines? Would you characterize it as positive or is it merely a superficial thing?
There are seemingly two corporate models in Bangalore—the old traditional business model and the new IT corporate culture, which in turn seems to be a replica of Silicon Valley. The IT city in Bangalore is in fact called Silicon City! There is much more fluidity and interaction between different ranks of people in the new IT culture, which contrasts with the structured tier-conscious culture of the old business model. Also, pay scales today are very different. In the IT corporate culture, it really doesn’t matter where you come from. Caste or class doesn’t matter as much as your ability to get the job done! I found that very striking. But of course, this new corporate culture still has to contend with poor roads, and outdated infrastructure.
What kind of a reaction has the book received so far from the Indian audience in India or in the United States?
Back in May, USA TODAY named it one of 10 must-read books. The book has already been featured on a number of book blogs, clubs, reading groups.
I think what the Indian audience likes about the book is the main characters’ belief in their right to happiness. Also, the book deals with the idea of immigration in reverse. People like Peter Champion, a white American who immigrates to India; or people like Parvati and Auro who move back to India, or even Anjali, who migrates internally, within India. These are themes that resonate with the Indian audience.
Do you see yourself writing more about the new India?
I really couldn’t tell you what sparks the idea for a new novel. Writing a novel is a major undertaking. Currently, I am working on two projects—the very beginnings of a novel and a collection of stories.
Any books that you read recently that have really caught your interest?
I plan to read Solo by Rana Dasgupta. With all the flying that I do between San Francisco and New York, I expect to find some reading time in flight!
I am thrilled that Indian writers in English are now moving on from subjects related to India or the immigrant experience and taking on whole new projects. The trouble, say 15 years ago, was that people treated Indian fiction about India or the immigrant experience as sociology or ethnography. Writers like me had to persuade people to see past the ethnography and treat our work as literature and imaginative work. We had to say, if you want to read about tribes, then read scholarly work.
Is it easier to get published these days if you’re Indian American? How is this different from when you started out?
There is a sense now, and quite rightly so, that very fine literature is coming out of India, and the Indian diaspora. This did not exist when I started out. But at the same time with all the problems that the publishing industry in general is going through right now, I just don’t know if books as we know them will exist anymore. When some publishing companies are being owned by oil conglomerates, who knows what shapes books will take.
I think that we now have a large group of Anglophone writers of Indian origin. English was a foreign language that history bestowed on us Indians. If India had been colonized by Germans, then we would have had Indian writing in German instead. But since London and New York are major hubs of the publishing industry they are able to discover Indian writers who write in English. However, finding a market for translated manuscripts is that much harder because the industry does not seem to be interested.
What kind of advice would you offer fledgling writers amongst the readers of India Currents? What do you tell your students?
I tell my students to read as much as they can and to write with passion; if you don’t have passion, then writing is simply going to be an exercise; it will also end up seeming like an exercise. In my creative writing workshops, I urge my students to read, read, read; you don’t always have to read works of writers who write like you … you can learn from both good books and bad books.
I would like to hear your take on recent debates in India about who can write the big India book? Do you have any comments on that?
I thought India Calling by Anand Giridharadas, [ed: see the August 2011 issue of India Currents] was a very moving book and I enjoyed it very much.

Review of Miss New India by Bharati Mukherjee, India Currents, October 2011

(Originally appeared in the October 2011 print edition of India Currents)

The Zeitgeist of Modern India

MISS NEW INDIA by Bharati Mukherjee. Houghton Mifflin Harcourt. Hardcover. 336 pages. $25.
Anjali Bose is a small town girl with big city dreams. In defiance of her parent’s wishes for her to be married soon after high school, Anjali seeks bigger and better things. Her aspirations and her journey from small town Gauripur to Bangalore, 21st century India’s city of hopes and dreams, is writer Bharati Mukherjee’s final offering in a trilogy dealing with the clash of contemporary and traditional India, followingDesirable Daughters and the Tree Bride.
Fast paced, and with too many characters clamoring for the reader’s attention at times, Miss New India attempts to capture the zeitgeist of a young, modernizing country through Anjali’s journey,  both literally and figuratively.
In Bangalore, India’s Silicon Valley, Anjali finds a place to stay at Ms. Minnie Bagehot’s, an Anglo-Indian landlady and certainly one of the more colorful characters of the book. Every setting in the book offers contrasting views of India. In Miss Bagehot’s house, Mukherjee portrays the old fading India of the Raj era. The Dollar colony, the ersatz American suburb transplanted in Bangalore, functions as the symbol of the new India. Anjali’s parents represent the old guard of custom, tradition, and family honor while her new friends in Bangalore represent the dynamism of the modern generation.
But Mukherjee expects the reader to accept that small town values are perforce contradictory to big town sensibilities, an assumption not even her central character seems to maintain consistently. Anjali’s characterl, despite being the focus of the story, is not well developed. Everything, from Anjali’s decision to acquiesce to being seen by prospective grooms, her bus journey across the country, her new friendships and new life in a big city, seem rushed. Her naiveté and apparent lack of confidence in some areas and brazenness in others contributes to a very foggy portrait of the character. And the many partially developed side plots—the cantankerous landlady, the gay mentor, the young American photographer friend, the roommate with dangerous liaisons—dilute the central plot and with, the character of the protagonist.
The story ends through a serious of rapidly unfolding events, some more contrived than others.
Miss New India, in trying to portray all that is happening to India—the rapid social, economic and cultural changes—perhaps offers too little in the process, quite like a 13-day 14-country tour of Europe. It might work for some, but others might prefer a meandering 7-day trip through just one country instead.
Mukherjee, however, excels in her detailed portraits of the social life and work culture in Bangalore. The reader gets a ringside seat into the everyday operations of call centers and the closely related language training institutes.
Miss New India is a primer on 21st century India to readers who are unfamiliar with the country and its culture. One gets a sampling of the traditional family mores and values, the small town mentality, and the still-present gender bias. But one also gets a good helping of the newness in Bangalore, and the fast -talking call center operators.
While offering nothing new in its story arc, Miss New India lends credence to the idea that 21st century India is the perfect muse for a story teller with all its dynamism, internal contradictions, and a billion stories within.

Review of Innocent: Confessions of a Welfare Mother, JMWW, Fal 2011

Originally appeared in the Fall 2011 edition of JMWW.
Source: http://jmww.150m.com/Morrisonrev.html


Innocent: Confessions of a Welfare Mother
by B. Morrison
Apprentice House, 2011
ISBN-10 978-1934074657, 342 pp., $18.95 
What is the welfare stereotype, if there is one? Women with children, living off a generous state, unwilling to pick themselves up by the bootstraps and do what it takes to make it in this big bad world. Such stereotypes of course, never account for the ways in which such women become welfare recipients. Set in the 1970s, Barbara Morrison's Innocent: Confessions of a Welfare Mother is a resounding salvo for welfare recipients whose struggles in and out of welfare dependency are overshadowed by the weight of such stereotypes.
Morrison is a young, fresh out-of-college woman taken in by the 1960s social movements. She marries a fellow hippie (Lewis, a tall, jack-of-all-trades, Mr. Fix it, with braided ponytails to boot), gets pregnant, and lives out of a bus. What follows in Innocent are Morrison's beautifully rendered chronicle of her decline into welfare dependency and slow climb out of it.
Morrison was born into a white middle-class family from Maryland. Her Father was a doctor from a working class background and her mother an authoritarian who forsook her chance at a career to raise six children. Growing up, Morrison stayed out of her parents' sights, away from her perpetually angry father and yard-stick yielding mother. She writes "I was amazed to learn later that it was normal for children to do things to attract parental attention. I wanted exactly the opposite." (Pg. 2).
Morrison attended college, often while having to work to make ends meet. Some of her older siblings benefitted from her parents largesse and attended Ivy League colleges, but not her. Marriage and children closely followed. While pregnant with her second child, she separated from her husband. Unable to find employment and unwilling to head back home to her parents, she decided to get on welfare. Welfare, as Morrison suggests, is not always the default option. As her friend Jill asks, "How bad do your choices have to be before welfare seems like your best choice?" Welfare or Federal Aid to Families with Dependent Children (AFDC, a federal assistance program that ran from 1935 to 1996, replaced later by Temporary Assistance for Needy Families (TANF), the 1996 "welfare reform" enacted under President Clinton), contrary to popular notion, is a fairly convoluted process, Morrison soon learned. The eligibility criteria needed to be met (rent an apartment, raise a child), case workers needed to be appeased, followed by innumerable trips to the social welfare office to follow up on late checks, and wrongly written checks. While the young mother struggled through the early months of living off welfare, with a toddler, another in the way and brutal New England winters, she is comforted in warmth and security provided by her single mother friends, also on welfare.
Originally appeared in Jul/Aug 2011 edition of Eclectica Magazine
Source:http://eclectica.org/v15n3/sankar.html




The Receptionist Engineer at Hotel Del Peregrino
by Girija Sankar
Photo by David Graham
Photo by David Graham

Please turn the lights off when you leave the room, Jose requested of us. But we forgot every time, only to be gently reminded by him again. His English was halting and accented, but correct. The owner of the hostel was a gringo, a Canadian transplant. Must've fled the chaotic yuppie life of urban north America, we surmised. Jose was there, every night, doing the graveyard shift. He was there to let us in, at nine p.m. one night and one a.m. the next, on Christmas Eve. It was Christmas Eve in a Catholic country,so we stepped out to attend Midnight Mass, hoping for a picture-perfect syncretic celebration of the birth of Christ in the Catholic and Mayan Yucatecan tradition of Merida. All the Churches were closed. So, no Christmas Mass, but the zocalo across from the main cathedral was teeming with locals and tourists alike, swaying to reggae music pouring out of the many bars dotting its periphery.

So, yeah, Jose had to let us in a little past midnight. We stayed in the next evening, hoping to work a "chat with a local," chalking up easy-to-recall memories of "Oh, the Yucatecans are very friendly," to dole out at dinner conversations with friends back in the ATL.

Jose the receptionist soon morphed into Jose the Yucatecan, and then Jose a once-med student who renounced medical school in favor of engineering to stay close to his parents. Jose the engineer traveled far and wide—to Taiwan, Hong Kong, Japan, and El Salvador. And Louisiana. He attended school in Louisiana. We never asked him why his family returned to Mexico. He learned about hard work and honesty in the U.S., he told us. A thwack on his buttocks from his teacher in middle school still ricochets. He works three jobs now to put his grown kids through law school: the graveyard shift at the Peregrino, as plant supervisor in the morning, and then as a production engineer for a few hours later in the day. "I enjoy it," he tells us,in his soft voice. "It's good." 

The toilet flush in our room won't work, but I don't tell Jose. He is an engineer who has traveled far and wide and now works three jobs to put his kids through law school in Mexico.

Review of Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors by Lizzie Collingham, Alimentum, June 2011


 (Originally appeared in the June 2011 web edition of Alimentum: The Literature of Food)


Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors
by Lizzie Collingham
Oxford University Press|USA, March 2007
Paperback: 352 pages, 34 halftones & 5 maps
ISBN: 978-0195320015

Every time I stir a pot of some tomato rasam (a home-cooked version of the mulligatawny soup that you might find on an Indian restaurant menu) I conjure up images of my mother, my mother’s mother, and then her mother making the same rasam, using the same proportion of lentils to tomatoes to tamarind, with a good bit of rasam spice mix thrown in. The aroma of the simmering tomatoes, tamarind and red chilies, so essential to this recipe, and so quintessentially South Indian, engulf me as I stir the concoction, slowly losing myself to the sepia-toned nostalgia of home, food memories and the heavenly aroma of garlic on ghee. The food of my forefathers. And mothers.
Romantic? Yes. Overly romantic? Why, yes, according to Lizzie Collingham. The recipe for rasam may be quintessentially Tamil, but not what goes into it. Chances are, my ancestors’ rasam tasted a lot different from what I make today—not merely because my Roma tomatoes are the chemically frozen kind. The red chilies and tomatoes, native to the New World, were introduced to the Indian palate by the Portuguese via the Spanish, and the tamarind, native to Africa, came perhaps by way of the Portuguese.
In Curry: A Tale of Cooks and Conquerors, Collingham offers up a fascinating study exploring the history of Indian cuisine from around the time of the Mughal empire. A historian by training, she takes us through India’s rich, vast and varied culinary history, offering up a veritable “biography of curries,” as she calls it.
Curry documents the history of central Asian, Persian and later European influences that over time created, converged, and interacted to produce what can loosely be called Indian cuisine. Beginning with the Mughals, its narrative meanders through the Portuguese and later British colonization, then moves on to the global diffusion of Indian food, beginning with curry, a uniquely British invention and contribution to the globalization of Indian food. An entire chapter is devoted to the sustained marketing efforts of the British in selling a hitherto unknown and strange brew to the natives: tea.
The chili, which many still mistakenly believe to be native to the Indian sub-continent, was a new world crop that was introduced by the Portuguese in the 15th century. Christopher Columbus set off in 1492 to capture the lucrative spice trade by means of a new sea route for Spain. On landing in the Caribbean islands, he chanced upon a local spice, which he believes is a pepper. It wasn’t; it was a type of chili. Columbus not only mistakenly anointed the Native Americans as Indians, but he also misclassified the chili, which in itself would have been an amazing discovery, as a pepper, something that the Europeans had come to enjoy and crave. The chili—with the spiciest variant now grown in India—soon grew to replace the long pepper or the Piper longum in spice mixes and quickly became a staple of the south Indian diet.
Collingham’s deep passion for the history of Indian food is matched by her writing. Charming, witty, and honest, her prose provides just the right mix of scholarly and popular writing for both casual readers and students of culinary histories.
As I season yet another pot of rasam with spluttering mustard and cumin seeds, I ask myself if the new world chili and tomato make this rasam any less South Indian. Probably not, since food, Collingham might agree, is not a mere summation of ingredients. Food is the collective memory of taste, texture, color, and the aroma of spluttering mustard and cumin seeds passed on from my grandmother to my mother to me.

My recipe for Tomato Rasam:
Ingredients:
2 tbsp of ghee/clarified butter
3-4 cloves of garlic, minced, roughly chopped or whole. (I prefer minced garlic).
lime-sized ball of tamarind, soaked in a bowl of warm water
6 cups of water
2-3 Roma tomatoes, chopped
1 tbsp of rasam spice mix (also available in Indian grocery stores)
2 tsp of turmeric powder
¾ cup of cooked toor dal (yellow pigeon peas, available in Indian grocery stores)
2 tbsp of vegetable oil (olive oil works too)
3 tsp of black mustard seeds
3 tsp of cumin seeds
handful of cilantro springs, finely chopped
handful of curry leaves, if available
Heat the ghee in a 1.5 quart saucepan on medium-high.
As soon as you can smell the aroma of melting ghee (an aroma like none other), throw in the garlic. When garlic turns golden brown, add the tamarind water (squeezing the tamarind to extract as much juice as possible); add up to 4 cups of water, including the tamarind extract.
Bring to a boil, and then add the chopped tomatoes.
Bring to boil again, and gently squish the tomatoes until well-blended.
Add the spice mix, turmeric, and salt to taste.
Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and let simmer for about 10-15 minutes, until an orangish froth begins to form.
When frothy layer is evident, mix in the cooked toor dal with 2 more cups of water and turn heat back up to medium-high.
In a separate pan, heat up the vegetable/olive oil; throw in the mustard and cumin seeds.
Remove from heat when seeds start spluttering and add to tomato/toor dal mixture in saucepan. Stir.
Remove saucepan from heat, taste and add more salt if necessary.
Garnish rasam with cilantro and curry leaves.
Serve with white rice, south Indian potato curry, and papadams.
Serves up to 4.

My own private heaven will serve this rasam every day.

Review of The Difficulty of Being Good: On the Subtle Art of Dharma by Gurcharan Das, May 2011, India Currents



To be (good) or not to be (good)
Girija Sankar • Published on May 52011

THE DIFFICULTY OF BEING GOOD: ON THE SUBTLE ART OF DHARMA by Gurcharan Das, Oxford University Press, USA. Paperback. 488 pages. $16.95.

The debate over what is good and what is evil is as old as humanity. An absolutist might say, “We are good and they are evil” while a relativist might point out that one man’s terrorist is another man’s freedom fighter. In a complex world, where nothing is black and white, it is hard to discern what is good or evil from the shades of grey that envelop every issue. It is precisely this grey area that Gurcharan Das tackles in TheDifficulty of Being Good…
Das takes dives deep into the Mahabharata, the great Indian epic, to investigate this weighty topic of good and evil, and what emerges is a thoroughly enjoyable, well-informed, and researched account. The book’s subtitle, “On the Subtle Art of Dharma,” captures the intricacies and nuances in the Mahabharata that are often left out in comic book or television versions of the epic.
Das, a prolific writer, studied philosophy as an undergraduate at Harvard University and enjoyed an illustrious career in the corporate world.  He took early retirement from his job as the CEO of Proctor & Gamble, India to pursue writing. In his 60s, the author decided to take an academic holiday spending a number of years at the University of Chicago researching and writing this book under the guidance of preeminent Indologists and Sanskrit scholars.
The book uses the term “dharma” to broadly outline a framework of evaluating what might be good or evil. The Mahabharata is deconstructed from this perspective, and the refrain of whether an action is dharma or not becomes a recurring theme of the book. At the same time, the very nature of dharma is also examined in the light of various events in the Mahabharata—Yudhishtra gambling away his kingdom, the attempted disrobing of Draupadi, or the war at Kurukshetra. The book is organized into chapters based on the character traits of its main actors. Hence chapter headings such as “Duryodhana’s envy,” “Arjuna’s Despair,” and “Krishna’s Guile” lead to an examination of the role of each character in the epic and the morality of their actions.
A reader who is already familiar with the Mahabharata’s themes, characters, and stories will be able to better enjoy the author’s perspectives, for though Das provides an overview in the beginning, and intersperses the chapters with details from the epic, the nuances of the author’s arguments are better understood with a much more detailed knowledge of the epic.
One chapter that might not be to the liking of the religious-minded, though, is the one that examines Krishna’s role in the epic, especially the questionable tactics that he persuades the Pandavas to espouse in order to win various battles. Das points out that Duryodhana himself, as he lies dying on the battlefield, questions Krishna’s advice to Bhima on how to vanquish Duryodhana—by breaking his thighs using Bhima’s mace. He also questions Krishna’s similar advice to Arjuna to kill Karna when he was fixing his chariot, or orchestrating the killing of Drona, the Pandavas’ teacher, by committing Yudhishtra to a lie.
Das’s analysis of Krishna’s role is a liberal secularist reading of the epic as a historical document, much like Albert Schweitzer’s The Quest for the Historical Jesus attempted to treat the life of Jesus in more of a historical than religious context. Krishna’s instruction to the Pandavas “Casting aside virtue, ye sons of Pandu, adopt now some contrivance for gaining the victory” captures the essence of his conviction which, in the words of the great football coach Vince Lombardi, is, “winning isn’t everything, it is the only thing.”
However, Das seems much too eager to drop frequent references to his Ivy League past and his corporate career, with a number of references to Western philosophers and extensive name-dropping. Moreover, the author’s attempts to compare the epic’s quandaries with Western religious thought and provide all-too-easy answers seem incongruous with his exegetical approach in the book. There is a continuing element of moral outrage against Indian politicians which not only becomes overbearing but rather defeats the central point of his analysis, which is that that there is complexity in every human endeavor, as exemplified in theMahabharata, and that one should not rush to quick judgment.
The book encourages the reader to make their own investigation of the Mahabharata in its entirety (100,000 verses) and Das provides an extensive bibliography and many sources from which to begin. It also provides excellent background material to begin contemplating contemporary moral problems, such as the legitimacy of the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan, the use of torture as strategy, and what constitutes a just war.
In conclusion though, the book raises more questions than it answers. In a way that seems to be the author’s intent, for that too seems to be the point of the Mahabharata, that there is no easy way to engage with the world and everything that inhabits it, and that even great heroes have doubts, they often despair, and are remorseful. There is good and evil in the world and sometimes one cannot tell which is which. 

Review of India Calling by Anand Giridharadas, JMWW, Spring 2011

Originally appeared in the Spring 2011 edition of JMWW.
Source: http://jmww.150m.com/IndiaCallingrev.html

India Calling: An Intimate Portrait of a Nation's Re-making
by Anand Giridharadas
Times Books, NY, New York. 2011
ISBN: 978-0-8050-9177-9, $25.00



Let's hold up Anand Giridharadas's India Calling as a mirror that reflects the zeitgeist of 21st-century India. What does one see? One sees aspirations, dreams, new-found desires, and hope. But the mirror only reflects what is immediately opposite. In reading India Calling, one realizes that what better reflects India is a fun-house mirror, at once exaggerating the new riches and lest you are caught up in the euphoria of a resurgent India, smacks you in the face with chilling images of crushing ,debilitating poverty, malnutrition, and corruption, of farmers committing suicide and politicians slipping cash-loaded envelopes into daily newspapers, quite literally, securing vote banks.
Anand Giridharadas, a writer and columnist for the New York Times, grew up in suburban Ohio of the 1970s and 80s but moved to India in the early 2000s. A product of a multi-ethnic family (father, a Tamil from the south and mother, a Punjabi from the north), his initial idea of India was severely limited to his yearly vacations spent with family and friends who belonged to what he calls the Anglicized elite of India. Giridharadas's India of the 1970s and 80s was stagnant, unchanging, caught in the morass of caste, communalism, and the license raj. When he returned to India in 2003 for a lucrative job with an international consulting firm and then onto a position with the Times, he witnessed a transformation in the very soul and psyche of its peoples. Giridharadas's India of the 2000s was an India breaking free from the shackles of its colonial, caste-ridden past, an India "that was changing when I arrived, and it continued to change dramatically, viscerally, improbably."
Six chapters, variously titled "Dream," "Ambition," "Pride," "Anger," "Love," and "Freedom," are each devoted to the author's own musings and supporting character portrayals in the vein of the chapter's title. Thus, in Ambition we encounter the ambitious Ravindra, who by far is the most fascinating of that people that the author chronicles. Ravindra lives in Umred, a small town in rural Maharashtra state, home also to Bombay. Born into a poor family, of a caste that while not untouchable was still considered backward (belonging to the vague category of OBC or "Other Backward Caste"), Ravindra, dreams big and what's more, makes it big too. He organizes a pageant for young men and women in Umred, opens up finishing schools that provide personality development and English language coaching, and even heads a delegation of roller-skaters to an international competition in Hong Kong. In Ravindra, the roller-skating, Dale Carnegie-quoting, English-speaking small-town entrepreneur, Giridharadas finds all that is new and resurgent in today's India.
A broader question that emerges from reading India Calling is one of representation. Who and whose point of view does the author represent? Indeed, should he represent anybody but himself? Further yet, is the question of representation even pertinent to this discussion? Well, The answer is yes and no. No, if works such as this provide vignettes with minimal meta observations and allow the readers to come to their own conclusions. Yes, if, as the byline to India Calling suggests, the author is attempting to paint an "intimate portrait of a nation's re-making." Now that's a tall order, and with it comes a great responsibility. One of presenting a well-rounded and balanced argument or view point. Giridharadas sets out to paint this portrait by falling back on his family's history in and out of India and then by teasing out strands of similarity between his family's experiences and a few other characters that he meets along the way during his time in India. While his character portrayals are strong, immediate and provide fertile ground to display both his story telling and journalistic skills, where the book falls short is in its analysis. Girdharadas's arguments though while not explicitly so, are one of economic determinism, whether in portraying Ravindra's meteoric rise from small town lad to an ambitious entrepreneur or in contrasting the old guard India with the new guard India.

Review of Delhi:Adventures in a Mega City by Sam Miller, February 2011, India Currents

(Source: http://www.indiacurrents.com/articles/2011/02/25/down-and-dirty-with-delhi)
Down and Dirty with Delhi
Girija Sankar 

DELHI: ADVENTURES IN A MEGACITY, by Sam Miller. St. Martin’s Press, New York, N.Y. July 2010. Hardcover. 304 pages. $24.99  

So often in travel writing, the protagonist (travel writer) is an intrepid, nomadic backpacker-traveler whose goal is not so much to sight-see but to meet the locals, to get into their heads, live their lives and get at the essence of what it means to be local whether it be Latvian, Bhutanese, or Chilean. They revel in their chance encounters—the auto-rickshaw driver that invites them home for a cup of tea and then to his sister’s wedding—pondering,  together, the purpose of the universe and how, in its infinite wisdom, it brought them together. I have to say that, having been to a few places on the map, this is not an easy thing to emulate. You don’t always meet interesting locals at the bus-stop. Mostly, they are too busy to notice you. You don’t always get invited to weddings. And these are not experiences the average traveler can relate to.
Sam Miller’s peregrinations through Delhi offers a antidote to travel writing that fetishize, romanticize, and exoticize. Miller’s account of Delhi is at its best the quintessence of travel writing—recount your experience as an itinerant and an observer.
Miller’s wife is Indian and grew up in Bombay, a city that Miller initially finds more endearing than Delhi. He also speaks Hindi, a marketable skill that probably makes it easier to get a conversation going with the locals.
The premise in Delhi is quite simple. Discover the city. By foot. In a spiral route starting out at Connaught Place. The people he meets are incidental to the places he sees on the route. Quite deliberately, conversations with individuals get their own mini chapters titled “Intermission,” suggesting that the route and the perambulations take precedence over the chance encounters. So while he does meet the odd idiosyncratic professor, or the undertaker, or rag picker, it is the very idea of  walking, albeit in a peculiar spiral route, (which the author rationalizes quite well) through a city of close to 15 million with no remarkable walking paths  that makes this a unique attempt at travel writing.
Miller chooses a walking route after carefully considering various geometric possibilities. This eliminates what often intrigues the reader—how does the travel writer travel, i.e. what are the elemental mechanics of travel? In this, Miller’s Delhi is a true guide. One could pick the book up and quite literally follow in his foosteps. But do it soon, if you must, for Delhi, as Miller suggests, is ever-changing, its contours forever being redrawn.
Miller takes on the french “flaneur” approach to traveling and writing (a flaneur is a wanderer, taking in all that comes one’s way, not charting any detailed route, but walking wherever your  feet take you). The author’s first brush with all things Delhi was through a film called theHouseholder, an early Merchant-Ivory production. The characters, the locations, the colors, and the nostalgia so influence the author that the film plays a charming cameo throughout the book. Miller is so captivated by Delhi that is portrayed in the film that he chases the exact location where a certain scene is shot on a rooftop of a building next a mosque. He somehow manages to locate both the mosque and the building. Lovers of Hindi film nostalgia will certainly appreciate these vignettes that run through the book.
Interesting contrasts can be made between Dalrymple’s Delhi and Miller’s Delhi. While Dalrymple is eloquent in his praise for Delhi’s unique  architectural styles, Miller is more cynical about the explosion in suburban growth, malls, and the widening social gap.
As a social commentator, however, Miller’s arguments  tend to be prosaic and debatable. For instance, Miller suggests “.. and Delhi is, more than ever, full of people who see the West as a model for ‘progress,’ who covet luxury cars and European holidays, or crave an American education ...” Observations about the East looking West and the West looking back at the East had their hey-days in the 90s. Again, while at  a hospital to donate blood, Miller observes how the hospital waiting room is perhaps  the only place where “an eclectic group of people might be thrown together and the occasion [of blood donation] has a classless...feel.”  He then goes on to say that “it was a reminder of ... how rarely the rich and the poor have the chance to interact, and never as equals.” Is one supposed to believe that the rich and poor indeed do behave as equals in London or that the denizens of the upper west side rub shoulders with their counterparts from Jamaica, Queens? That does not hold water. The “south side” is almost synonymous with disadvantaged neighborhoods in most American cities where gentrification forces poor people farther out of the city. In the United States, the better-off can choose not to drive through seedy neighborhoods, avoiding any interaction altogether. In India, the huge informal economy necessitates and facilitates interactions between the various classes. Thus a middle class household would in any given day interact with the vegetable vendor, the fruit seller, the laundry wallah, the maid, the driver, the ayah etc. These interactions do not necessarily translate to greater empathy or understanding on the part of the better-off for the not-so-better-off, but they do render class differences starker than in the west. Contrary to what Miller observes, class differences are not brushed under the lush carpets of the South Delhi elite. Miller the travel writer is much better than Miller the social commentator.
However, Miller’s wit and humor are evident through out the narrative, whether in describing, in candid detail, the shit-squirter by a subway close to Regal Cinema, or the number of attempts (17) to visit different ministries (3) and offices (5) to obtain a PIO card, or his near-surreal experience at the International Center for World Renewal—an outfit run by the Brahma Kumaris.
Miller’s Delhi is a narrative in the here and the now, and not merely about the tombs and forts of the previous incarnations of Delhi. His walks take him to Delhi’s swanky new metro stations, to open air slaughter houses, and through garbage dumps. And Miller does not sanitize his experiences for the reader.
The author’s travel is one that travelers and adventure seekers can actually emulate, one spiral after another, and that, I would argue, can be the best compliment for a travelogue. But be wary, though. Walking Delhi is a difficult endeavor. Miller was hit by an auto-rickshaw, chased by pigs and fell into a man hole—none life-threatening, but to be taken into consideration nevertheless for flaneurs inspired by the writer.